Tuesday 29 July 2014

Tibet (by Lorri and Nico)

As you travel towards the Tibetan Autonomous Region, you see mileposts with the distance from Shanghai (in kilometers), but we think you'll be more interested in the distances from our (Lorri & Cal's) home town of Grimshaw (Canada not Scotland) that Cal has been keeping for us since the beginning of the trip - we're all a long way from home by now!

Mile markers
Golmud - altitude 2780 meters, 9265 km from GrimshawThe Calypso family met our Tibetan guide, Tsewang, in Golmud and with permits in hand and positive thoughts we started the journey south. We passed the first checkpoint just outside of town with no problems, but a few kilometers south we encountered road repairs (done by hand by crews of women and men) and two major military convoys - one coming from Lhasa and the other heading in our direction. Interesting fact - even the military trucks are decorated with ribbons and bows. It was slow going through the construction and our first bush camp was still north of Tibet.

En route to Lhasa - altitude 4570 meters, 9480 km from Grimshaw We were all feeling the effects of altitude sickness - headaches, breathlessness, and nausea as well as a restless sleep. But we packed up camp and continued our journey along the Tibetan plateau. The land is starkly beautiful. We've seen a bunch of interesting animals, too, as the road travels through very unpopulated highlands. Wild Tibetan donkeys (pretty brown colour and we mistook them for deer till we enlarged the photos), Himalayan deer and antelope, and cute little rodent things that we named Gregory (gerbil sized) and Henry (small rabbit sized) until our Tibetan guide realized what we were doing and said that Gregory was a Himalayan mole and Henry was a pica. I think we were entertaining him! And there are yaks everywhere (many decorated with prayer flags) - but they are domestic; apparently there are only a few wild ones and they stay at higher altitudes and away from people. Lou and Cal, with the occasional contribution from Nico, continue to see new birds. There were black redstarts, brown cheeked buntings, Himalayan griffons (who win the prize for coolest name), brown headed gulls, hoopoos and a whole cast of others who remain nameless.


















Mid morning saw us stopping at the "Welcome to Tibet" archway for a photo op. The police check a few kilometers down the road took five hours while passports were checked and higher authorities were consulted. It makes you realize how unusual it is for a western group to travel overland into the Tibetan Autonomous Region. While our guide spent the time in the office, we had lunch, did some pre-dinner prep, played a bit of basketball, entertained the locals, and participated in a number of photo ops with officials and passing motorists. Permission was finally granted to continue, and after a quick supper and a very enthusiastic "woo hoo" Calypso and her family were officially welcomed to Tibet.



Almost four hours of driving later, and having taken a wee break at the summit of the Tanglan Pass (5234 meters, the highest Calypso will be in her travels), we settled in for a quick sleep.


En route to Lhasa - altitude 4963 meters, 9735 km from Grimshaw

Getting up in the dark to start a long drive to Lhasa, everybody worked to help each other pack up camp with conversations about the lightening storm that had passed through, the gorgeous sunset and who was dealing with what altitude symptoms. It was a quiet group that hit the truck, but some magic fairies (led by Mark, our truck wallah) had found the breath to blow up balloons for Lorri's birthday. Lunch and birthday cake were had at a police check that included friendly yak, curious Gregories and the ever present visiting dog.


Lorri's birthday cake
Lorri's stuff
For Lorri's quilt
Lhasa - altitude 3677 meters, 10089 km from Grimshaw
After two looong driving days and high altitude bush camps we made it to the Yak hotel in Lhasa. Not a sleepy isolated Tibetan town by any means. The old town (and we were in it) comprises 4% of the city. The rest is bustling Chinese city like the others we have seen. It had great comfortable beds, excellent wifi, included breakfast (one of the best on our trip with real bacon), and a lovely restaurant next door. We were here for four nights, so lots of time to check out the sights.


Top on the list of things to do was to visit the Jokhang monastery, one of two UNESCO sites in Lhasa. Built in the 8th century, damaged, and rebuilt numerous times over the centuries (most recently following the Cultural Revolution in the 1960s), our guide, Tsewang, used the tour to help us see the intertwining of history, politics, and religion for the Tibetan people. Bruce put it so well (thanks Bruce for letting me paraphrase your words) that for us westerners, religion is something that we put on or take off at our convenience. For Tibetans, however, their religion defines their every action.

Some of us went on to visit other monasteries as well as the Potala Palace while others felt one was enough. Here are some interesting facts that you probably won't read in a guidebook.
1. When you go to the Jokhang monastery, look up at the rafter poles around the second floor, or look down into the courtyard from the second floor. Every monastery has snow lions for good luck; an unknown artist individually carved these. Like gargoyles in mediaeval European churches, these are all different, and it seems like a whole field of Gregories peering at you!
2.  The Potala palace has all sorts of restored glitz, but watch for the cabinet with hundreds of Buddah statues. Some of them are more than 1000 years old, and local people carefully hid all of them to protect them from destruction during the Cultural Revolution.
3.  Sera monastery is absolutely worth a visit. The ride on the local bus there and back is prime people watching. It's noted for healing cranky babies and adults with mental illness - when we went through, a smiling monk insisted we needed blessing so we all left with black smudges on our noses!


Lhasa wasn't all monasteries, it was also a great place to stroll through the old town and people-watch. The markets satisfied everybody's retail therapy needs. And it was hard to decide whether to eat Tibetan, Chinese, or fast food fusion (the word Dico's comes to mind).




The Potala Palace




Solar kettle









Debating monks at Sera monastery
Prayer wheels
Visiting the Potala Palace


Debating monks

At the Jokhang monastery





Gyantse - altitude 4037 meters, 10208 km from Grimshaw - another birthday, and a stunning conclusion to the Calypso World Cup Football Pool
Next, it was off down the Friendship Highway. To get to Gyantse, we drove narrow twisting roads through beautiful mountains. You could tell we were on the tourist track now, with busloads of Chinese tourists as fascinated by our little group as by the mountain scenery. And at each stop there were enterprising nomads showing off their animals or offering to sell trinkets.


En route to Gyantse





Calypso had a spa day as Nico, Mikkel and Teresa took everything out, fixed, and replaced what was needed. She also got her prayer flags mounted, ready for the trek to Everest. It was endlessly entertaining to the locals who watched and offered advice all day. Even the local dogs adopted the truck for the day! Sometimes one gets a little weary being the out of town entertainment.


Of course there was another monastery. Watch for the very ugly/flaming Buddha figures- they are actually protectors, not bad guys. Also, take a walk toward the river and walk the back road. You can get some great photos of the monastery and the fort above it. Imagine, before the Cultural Revolution, that all the empty ground was full of buildings.

The big social event was Wayne's birthday held at the Gyantse Kitchen. It was a three white scarf set of birthday wishes and a good time had.


Wayne's birthday


Before we left Gyantse, we had one more important celebration. Starting in Kyrgyzstan and continuing through China, the Calypso family eagerly followed the World Cup Football. Each morning, our truck wallah, Mark, would post scores. Some of us were more excited to find out what were the categories of the day; some of us cared about our points. There were even an enterprising few who figured out how and where to watch the games live. But like all good things, it came to an end on the truck before leaving Gyantse. Despite a last minute battle with Steve, Cal managed to hold onto his last place position and be crowned Chumpion. Top place and Champion of the World was never in doubt as Luke, with his excellent skills at playing the odds, had led from the beginning. But Jordan and Jason had been quietly creeping up the ranks. In the end, though, Jordan managed to outstrip the competition to become honored runner up.



Shigatse in the rain - altitude 3815 meters, 10187 km from Grimshaw
We were in Shigatse for three days to visit the Tashilhunpo Monastery, the seat of the Panchen Lama and one of the most important monasteries to Tibetans, and also to get permits to visit Mt. Everest base camp and continue our travels. Despite the frequent rain showers, we all managed to find something to do. For some, it was a chance to do a bit more retail therapy, for which Bruce gains the distinction of getting the most spectacular bit of jewelry (to go with the equally lovely ring in Lhasa). Some took advantage of China Post to send their treasures onward, while others found space in luggage. Interesting fact, the kora (pilgrim's walk around the monastery) is up into the hill and is a great way to people-watch, check out animals, and see over the old town as you walk back into the market.

En route (somewhere near Mt Everest) - altitude 4359 meters, where is Grimshaw?
It was another long day driving (after all, China is the largest country in the world!), including a most interesting several hours being part of a major "truck got stuck" incident (luckily not our truck getting stuck). Apparently this section gets washed out every spring and then repaired every summer. What made it worse was that the rain we had had in Shigatze, had been three days of snow - which brings home how high we are and how brief summer is on the Tibetan plateau. Hint from Lorri - check out Corb Lund's video "the Truck got Stuck" to get the feel for the situation. We pulled into the national park with just enough daylight to pitch tents and eat a "home cooked Chinese meal" courtesy of our Chinese guide, Daniel, and cook group one.

Stuck in the mud
En route
Everest Base Camp - altitude 4991 meters, 10354 km from Grimshaw - we made it!
We started our day getting tickets to the base camp where we had a perfect early morning view of Mt. Qomolangma himself (for Tibetans, the mountain is definitely a he). Then we started up the road to the tent village we would stay in for the night. Up, up, up then down, down, down as we moved from one valley to the next. Great scenery, local nomads and their animals. Finally just after lunch, we arrived at the tent village where tourists must stay. Vastly overcrowded and under serviced, but the Calypso family made the best of the situation (and used our well practiced bush wee skills), because for some of us this was the highlight of the trip.

It's only a 3 - 4 km walk and less than 200 meters elevation gain, but at this altitude that still means lots of stopping to catch our breath. Some of us chose to enjoy the view from the tents; some of us went up and down fairly quickly (content to see the arch, snap a photo or two) but a few hardy souls communed with the mountain most of the afternoon. Although the mountain had been exceedingly shy and cloud covered all day, later in the evening the clouds lifted giving great views. Interesting fact, the river that is flowing from Everest is a tributary of the Yellow River.

Thanks to the weather gods for sending the rains when we were in Shigatse and the blue skies when we visited Everest.

EVEREST!
Luke and Lou at Base Camp
Glacial river
Barren lands surround these mountains
Almost at the top
Mark at Base Camp



Tsewang, our Tibetan guide
Everest from our tented camp
En route and moving down - altitude 4215 meters - all things must end - last bush camp (probably) and a final Calypso adventure
Next morning, out the way we came, then south on the Friendship Highway. Still the stark mountain passes but we were dropping in altitude. We started to see cows instead of yaks and some vegetation. The streams we crossed are flowing in our direction. The crew and our guides started to talk about finding a really nice spot for our last bush camp. Ever (well, unless we have a sneaky one in Nepal or India). A lovely green spot by a river was found. Unfortunately, Calypso had other ideas and got stuck almost up to her front axle in the mud (repeat "the Truck got Stuck" if you wish; this time us). After hours of digging determination and a lot of creative "truck unstuck" solutions, we turned in with prayers that tomorrow would be a better day. And it was. With sand mats, rocks in the right places, and an audience of the local nomads, Calypso inched her way back onto the road and we were off toward the border town of Zhangmu.

Putting the sand mats back

Zhangmu - altitude 2190 meters, 10392 km from Grimshaw
Yes, we dropped more than 2,000 metres on our journey today through lush rain forest. Zhangmu is a one street border town clinging to the side of the mountain. 

Zhangmu




We'll leave the next part of the story (and how beautiful the rainy side of the Himalayas are) to Nepal. Here's one last picture to give you a hint.